Thursday, September 3, 2015

China: Through the Looking Glass at The Met,
Part 3 -- Manchu Robe Inspired

Left: Chanel, ca. 1930, Reconfigured Chinese robe of embroidered silk gauze 
The next section of the Anna Wintour Costume Center housed a vast display of antique Chinese imperial robes paired with modern couture. Some, like the above Chanel jacket, showed obvious direct inspiration for motifs on the fabrics. Mirrors were strategically placed, to enable viewing all sides of the couture garments.
In the center of the room, clips from Betrolucci's The Last Emperor were projected on parallel walls, paired with a looping cut from the soundtrack, "Open the Door" by Ryuichi Sakamoto.
Chinese Mantle, ca. 1917-20, Embroidered silk satin with applique of rooster feathers and silk flowers
Sketches:

Chinese Mantle, ca. 1917-20, Embroidered silk satin with applique of rooster feathers and silk flowers
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Printed silk chiffon with silk chiffon applique, silk velvet ribbon, mink
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins, fox fur
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Printed silk chiffon with silk chiffon applique, silk velvet ribbon, mink
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins, fox fur
Dries Van Noten, autumn/winter 2012/13, Wool/silk hammered satin and wool twill

Center: Chinese Festival Robe, late 19th century, Silk and metallic tapestry
Sketches:

Dries Van Noten, autumn/winter 2012/13, Wool/silk hammered satin and wool twill
John Galliano for Dior, autumn/winter 1998/99, Embroidered silk jacquard (front and back)
John Galliano for Dior, autumn/winter 1998/99, Embroidered silk jacquard
Right: no information, not in catalogue

Left: Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, autumn/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins
Tomorrow, I'll feature the Chinoiserie section of the exhibition, both with my sketches and photos.

Note: I relied on the exhibition catalogue China: Through the Looking Glass and The Met's website for information, especially the details about the garments. Selected images from the catalogue can be viewed on The Met's Pinterest board.